IBJOpinion

DINING: Square Rootz Deli shapes sandwiches with style

Back to TopCommentsE-mailPrintBookmark and Share
Dining - A&E

It’s easy to miss Square Rootz Deli. I drove by twice before putting my parallel parking skills to the test just around the corner from the nearly 3-month-old Fountain Square eatery. But it’s worth finding.

Located across the street from the visually stimulating Fountain Square Theatre, Square Rootz (1110 Prospect St., 631-3354) isn’t much to look at from the outside, but the interior merits some lingering—from the locally produced art that changes every month to the impressive selection of used albums (yes, albums, as in old-school vinyl) for sale along one wall.
 

Dining Thick meatloaf helps anchor the menu at Square Rootz Deli in Fountain Square. (IBJ Photo/ Perry Reichanadter)

And then there’s the food. The deli’s website is still under construction so we had to make snap decisions at the counter, always an iffy proposition. We did pretty well, but after perusing the take-out menu realized we had completely overlooked a handful of salads and some interesting sandwiches like the What A Friend We Have in Cheeses ($7), which combines mozzarella, provolone, sliced apples and honey mustard on grilled multigrain bread.

Instead, we went with the order-taker’s recommendations: a TMC sandwich ($8), Dustin’s BLT wrap ($7) and Meatloaf Plate ($6 with one side dish, $8 with two).

We’re still not sure what TMC stands for, but I’m guessing Tasty Mozzarella & Chicken. My sandwich featured the cheese and meat along with spinach, sundried tomatoes and a creamy sundried tomato basil spread on buttery grilled sourdough—finger-licking good, for sure. I added on a side of green beans in hopes of balancing out the decadence. I felt virtuous, anyway.

My friend opted for the meatloaf and a side of baked beans, which owner/chef Jeff Reuter clearly had spent time with. Unfortunately, the generous serving of beans wasn’t hot, leaving my friend cool on the dish. The brick-sized slice of meatloaf, on the other hand, was no-mush successful.

We brought the BLT wrap and a bag of fancified potato chips back to the office, where the lucky recipient was so wowed by the portion size that he thought we’d given him two lunches. The wrap, which mixed spinach dip with the namesake ingredients, nevertheless was manageable and the flavor noteworthy. His only quibble: It could have used more lettuce to vary the texture.

For dessert, we shared a moist, brownie-like variation of peach cobbler, which was free because of our check-in on the location-based Four Square app—which only made us enjoy it more.•

____________

Third in our month-long series of reviews of new downtown-ish restaurants.

ADVERTISEMENT

Post a comment to this story

COMMENTS POLICY
We reserve the right to remove any post that we feel is obscene, profane, vulgar, racist, sexually explicit, abusive, or hateful.
 
You are legally responsible for what you post and your anonymity is not guaranteed.
 
Posts that insult, defame, threaten, harass or abuse other readers or people mentioned in IBJ editorial content are also subject to removal. Please respect the privacy of individuals and refrain from posting personal information.
 
No solicitations, spamming or advertisements are allowed. Readers may post links to other informational websites that are relevant to the topic at hand, but please do not link to objectionable material.
 
We may remove messages that are unrelated to the topic, encourage illegal activity, use all capital letters or are unreadable.
 

Messages that are flagged by readers as objectionable will be reviewed and may or may not be removed. Please do not flag a post simply because you disagree with it.

Sponsored by
ADVERTISEMENT

facebook - twitter on Facebook & Twitter

Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ on Facebook:
Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ's Tweets on these topics:
 
Subscribe to IBJ
  1. With Pence running the ship good luck with a new government building on the site. He does everything on the cheap except unnecessary roads line a new beltway( like we need that). Things like state of the art office buildings and light rail will never be seen as an asset to these types. They don't get that these are the things that help a city prosper.

  2. Does the $100,000,000,000 include salaries for members of Congress?

  3. "But that doesn't change how the piece plays to most of the people who will see it." If it stands out so little during the day as you seem to suggest maybe most of the people who actually see it will be those present when it is dark enough to experience its full effects.

  4. That's the mentality of most retail marketers. In this case Leo was asked to build the brand. HHG then had a bad sales quarter and rather than stay the course, now want to go back to the schlock that Zimmerman provides (at a considerable cut in price.) And while HHG salesmen are, by far, the pushiest salesmen I have ever experienced, I believe they are NOT paid on commission. But that doesn't mean they aren't trained to be aggressive.

  5. The reason HHG's sales team hits you from the moment you walk through the door is the same reason car salesmen do the same thing: Commission. HHG's folks are paid by commission they and need to hit sales targets or get cut, while BB does not. The sales figures are aggressive, so turnover rate is high. Electronics are the largest commission earners along with non-needed warranties, service plans etc, known in the industry as 'cheese'. The wholesale base price is listed on the cryptic price tag in the string of numbers near the bar code. Know how to decipher it and you get things at cost, with little to no commission to the sales persons. Whether or not this is fair, is more of a moral question than a financial one.

ADVERTISEMENT