DINING: Po-boy newcomer has bocce, beer and the right bread

Give me good food at a good price in a comfortable atmosphere and I am a happy man. Put a bocce court next to it and I’m near bliss. Which is why I expect to be going back to B’s Po-Boy (1261 S. Shelby St.) long after this review is published.

Shrimp is just one of the options for your B’s po-boy. (IBJ Photo/ Perry Reichanadter)

When it comes to its title sandwiches, B’s menu insists that a New Orleans Po Boy ($6/$9) is all about the bread. And it’s got the bread right—a perfectly crunchy loaf shipped in from Louisiana. But what’s inside is relevant as well and, in my experience, B’s is far more generous with the BBQ Pulled Pork than with the Fried Shrimp and Andouille Sausage, but all were served hot, well-balanced with lettuce, tomato and pickle, and served with friendly efficiency.

Both the Sweet Potato Fries ($3) and thin French Fries ($2) were side dish bargains. Other options include Creole Slaw ($2) and Red Beans, Andouille, and White Rice ($3.50/$9).

You can wash it all down with a soft drink, wine or beer on tap from Louisiana’s Abita Brewing Co.

Three other elements help this Fountain Square newcomer transcend. One is the deck, which borders on the second—a pair of bocce courts ready for playing. The third is the lunch special, which for $7.50 gets you a half Po Boy (from a limited selection), fries and a drink. It’s a deal that left me feeling sorry for those across the street having yet another forgettable Subway lunch.

My biggest concern at B’s is that the distressed design of the building may come across as rundown rather than deliberate. More shabby than chic, it could turn customers away from a place that deserves a spot on the lunch rotation of anyone with easy access to Fountain Square (which means anyone in downtown Indy with parking lot in-and-out privileges).• —Lou Harry

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Second in a month-long series of new-in-the-neighborhood restaurants.