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DINING: Fishers diners need not fear Wolfie's Den

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Dining - A&E

Just walking into Wolfie’s Den made me want to take up hunting. Well, OK, maybe it just made me want to eat some meat.

Located in a former Schlotzsky’s sandwich shop, the Fishers eatery (7695 Crosspoint Commons, 913-1212) is a kitschy version of a rustic lodge with a bit of sports bar thrown in—think faux log walls and plenty of big-screen TVs. (All the better to see the big game, my dear.)
 

dining Wolfie’s tender Prime Rib sandwich almost melts in the mouth. The house-made chips were delicious, too. (IBJ Photo/ Perry Reichanadter)

Apparently, the giant gas fireplace separating the bar from the dining room isn’t enough of a barrier to satisfy the liquor board, so kids aren’t allowed to eat inside Wolfie’s—though they are permitted on the covered patio outside. And oddly enough, smoking is allowed outside, but not inside.

Given the atmosphere, I wasn’t really expecting the food to be much more than standard bar fare. I’m happy to report I was wrong.

Taking a recommendation from our attentive server, I tried the Prime Rib sandwich ($8.99) and homemade potato chips. Served with au jus, the sandwich featured flavorful prime rib sliced thin, sautéed with sweet onion and topped with pepper jack cheese—surrounded by a grilled bun that delivered just the right combination of chewiness and crunchiness. The seasoned chips were equally impressive, despite their simplicity, and got even better when dipped in the barbecue sauce that came with my husband’s selection.

He opted for the Wolfie’s Smoked Pulled Pork ($7.69, plus $1 to substitute French fries for the chips). Another solid choice, the sandwich was piled high with hickory smoked meat that clearly had received as much TLC as the prime rib—tasty and tender. The fries were fine, but paled in comparison to the chips. The house-made sauce, served on the side, was an excellent addition, with just enough heat to keep the sweet in check.

Before we were halfway done eating, we already were planning a return visit, maybe to try one of the $6 weekday lunch specials or possibly to check out the daily dinner features. Perhaps we’ll even venture north to the original location—Wolfie’s Waterfront Grill on Morse Reservoir. It doesn’t quite beat eating at Grandma’s house, but this Wolf is worth spending time with.•

—Andrea Muirragui Davis

__________

Last in our month-long series of reviews of animal-named eateries.

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  1. A Tilted Kilt at a water park themed hotel? Who planned that one? I guess the Dad's need something to do while the kids are on the water slides.

  2. Don't come down on the fair for offering drinks. This is a craft and certainly one that belongs in agriculture due to ingredients. And for those worrying about how much you can drink. I'm sure it's more to do with liability than anything else. They don't want people suing for being over served. If you want a buzz, do a little pre-drinking before you go.

  3. I don't drink but go into this "controlled area" so my friend can drink. They have their 3 drink limit and then I give my friend my 3 drink limit. How is the fair going to control this very likely situation????

  4. I feel the conditions of the alcohol sales are a bit heavy handed, but you need to realize this is the first year in quite some time that beer & wine will be sold at the fair. They're starting off slowly to get a gauge on how it will perform this year - I would assume if everything goes fine that they relax some of the limits in the next year or couple of years. That said, I think requiring the consumption of alcohol to only occur in the beer tent is a bit much. That is going to be an awkward situation for those with minors - "Honey, I'm getting a beer... Ok, sure go ahead... Alright see you in just a min- half an hour."

  5. This might be an effort on the part of the State Fair Board to manage the risk until they get a better feel for it. However, the blanket notion that alcohol should not be served at "family oriented" events is perhaps an oversimplification. and not too realistic. For 15 years, I was a volunteer at the Indianapolis Air Show, which was as family oriented an event as it gets. We sold beer donated by Monarch Beverage Company and served by licensed and trained employees of United Package Liquors who were unpaid volunteers. And where did that money go? To central Indiana children's charities, including Riley Hospital for Children! It's all about managing the risk.

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