IBJOpinion

DINING: Yes, Virginia, there's another good local doughnut shop

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Dining - A&E

When the short-lived Bonjour Café said adieu, it looked like its building at 2402 N. Meridian St. would become just another depressing might-have-been shell to pass on the way in and out of downtown.

But the spot didn’t remain fallow for long. It’s been reborn, with a more American staple at its center: the doughnut. And the title treat at Virginia Kay’s Doughnuts (925-5297) is fine, indeed. (A drive-in window is in the works, too).
 

a&e-virginia-kays02-15col.jpg Yeast resistance: It’s difficult to pass up the donuts at Virginia Kay’s on N. Meridian St. (IBJ Photo/ Perry Reichanadter)

Virginia Kay’s doughnuts—made at the company’s own off-site bakery—aren’t overly sweet like Krispy Kreme’s or as pillowy as the ones at Dunkin’ Doughnuts (not that I’m complaining about either of those). And they aren’t as distinct as legendary Long’s, held by many to be the best in the city.

But full of flavor and not too heavy, these are seriously good creations. We sampled just about everything in Virginia Kay’s showcase and were particularly impressed with the apple filled (just enough filling and a strong enough outer dough shell to keep it all contained), the glazed old-fashioned cake (got to know the basics), and the maple-iced glazed, which is easy to overdo.

Yes, there are one or two with sprinkles, but so far Virginia Kay’s is avoiding the overly cutesy sugar-shocker variations that lure kids to supermarket pastry cases. A dozen of any—or mix and match—will set you back $7.99. Half that runs $4.99. If you are feeding only yourself, they’re 89 cents each.

But breakfast isn’t the only option. Virginia Kay’s also serves Panini Sandwiches ($5.49 for a whole, $3.99 for a half, and $2 extra for a fountain drink and chips). Crisp and toasty on the outside of the sourdough bread but light inside, they come in 10 variations, including Pesto Turkey Melt and Steak Ranchero. Nobody at our table had any complaints.

Well, except a minor one. Only one sandwich on the menu, the Three Cheese Grilled Cheese, is vegetarian-friendly, and there’s nothing else offered to give even a carnivorous lunch returnee some variety. Some soups, chili or salads wouldn’t tax the kitchen too much.

That is, if it doesn’t take time away from making the doughnuts.

Mmmmm, doughnuts.•

–Lou Harry

__________

Last in a month-long series of reviews of “en route” eateries.
 

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  • They are Closed
    Per a story this afternoon in the IndyStar. The entire company closed down today. Sorry to hear about that.

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  1. Why not take some time to do some research before traveling to that Indiana town or city, and find the ones that are no smoking either inside, or have a patio? People like yourself are just being selfish, and unnecessarily trying to take away all indoor venues that smokers can enjoy themselves at. Last time I checked, it is still a free country, and businesses do respond to market pressure and will ban smoking, if there's enough demand by customers for it(i.e. Linebacker Lounge in South Bend, and Rack and Helen's in New Haven, IN, outside of Fort Wayne). Indiana law already unnecessarily forced restaurants with a bar area to be no smoking, so why not support those restaurants that were forced to ban smoking against their will? Also, I'm always surprised at the number of bars that chose to ban smoking on their own, in non-ban parts of Indiana I'll sometimes travel into. Whiting, IN(just southeast of Chicago) has at least a few bars that went no smoking on their own accord, and despite no selfish government ban forcing those bars to make that move against their will! I'd much rather have a balance of both smoking and non-smoking bars, rather than a complete bar smoking ban that'll only force more bars to close their doors. And besides IMO, there are much worser things to worry about, than cigarette smoke inside a bar. If you feel a bar is too smoky, then simply walk out and take your business to a different bar!

  2. As other states are realizing the harm in jailing offenders of marijuana...Indiana steps backwards into the script of Reefer Madness. Well...you guys voted for your Gov...up to you to vote him out. Signed, Citizen of Florida...the next state to have medical marijuana.

  3. It's empowering for this niche community to know that they have an advocate on their side in case things go awry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lrst9VXVKfE

  4. Apparently the settlement over Angie's List "bundling" charges hasn't stopped the practice! My membership is up for renewal, and I'm on my third email trying to get a "basic" membership rather than the "bundled" version they're trying to charge me for. Frustrating!!

  5. Well....as a vendor to both of these builders I guess I have the right to comment. Davis closed his doors with integrity.He paid me every penny he owed me. Estridge,STILL owes me thousands and thousands of dollars. The last few years of my life have been spent working 2 jobs, paying off the suppliers I used to work on Estridge jobs and just struggling to survive. Shame on you Paul...and shame on you IBJ! Maybe you should have contacted the hundreds of vendors that Paul stiffed. I'm sure your "rises from the ashes" spin on reporting would have contained true stories of real people who have struggled to find work and pay of their debts (something that Paul didn't even attempt to do).

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