Arts & Entertainment, etc. and Dining Reviews

DINING: A little bit of truck, part 2

September 8, 2012
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Last week, I explained a little about my resistance to food trucks. As I said then, that resistance wasn’t really grounded in experience—at least, not recent experience—but in old conceptions. So this month, I decided to start from scratch and experience Indy’s newly booming food truck culture with an open mind, searching for that magic combination of quality, convenience and price.

ae-taco-lassi04-15col.jpg Taco Lassi’s signature trio is topped with mango. Try the Tandoori Chicken version. (IBJ Photo/ Perry Reichanadter)

First stop this time was Taco Lassi, the creation of Kari Kickander and Adam Perry, she a visual artist and he a musician, who shared an interest in cooking and renovated an old truck when they moved to central Indiana. I appreciate the pride Taco Lassi takes in its ingredients—you can find the pedigree for its tortillas, beef and produce on its website, www.tacolassi.com. And I certainly enjoyed the trio of tacos ($10) jovially served for a lunch—particularly the tandoori chicken version. The mango slice on top of each was also a nice touch.

The downside is that these are small tacos—gone in a bite or two, especially when you are trying to avoid having juices run down your sleeve. For me, a $10 lunch shouldn’t feel like an appetizer. And the long wait—not just to order through the side window but then to have my name called through the driver-side door—had me anticipating more than was delivered.

Hungry for more, we stopped at Duos, which, in addition to a truck, also has a cafeteria inside the International Medical Group Building (2960 N. Meridian St.). After braving another line, we sampled the Ham, Manchego cheese and cherry conserve sandwich. The ingredients sounded like a refreshingly light alternative to the grease-heavy offerings at other establishments. And they were—if only the bread hadn’t been too hearty for its own good. The carb-heavy taste made the $7 charge hard to justify. A few days later, however, a delicious sample of a Duos Goat Cheese Quesadilla—with mustard greens and potato—at the annual Dig-In festival at White River State Park—left me eager to track this truck down again.•

—Lou Harry

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Second in a month-long series of food-truck dining columns.

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