IBJOpinion

DINING: New chain wedges in to Indy market

Back to TopCommentsE-mailPrintBookmark and Share
Dining - A&E

Do we need another pizza chain in central Indiana? Well, that depends on how you define “need.”

Sure, some intersections seem overrun with pizza choices. If you stand at just the right spot near Indiana University Hospital, you can see five of them. But, for now, that’s not the case near the in-the-works Anson development in Zionsville. And that’s where the first local edition of Fox’s Pizza Den (6565 E. State Road 334, 769-2336) has set up shop.

Folded pizza crust replaces bread as the container for the signature Wedgie sandwich at Fox’s Pizza Den. (IBJ Photo/Robin Jerstad)

Its large cheese pie ($12.99) features a pillowy crust and boasts the lowest saturated fat, total fat and caloric content of the major chains. A Taco Pizza from the Gourmet section of the menu ($8.99 for a small) kept the spice under control and offered a tasty layer of taco meat and a sprinkling of nacho chips to go with the nicely blended sauce and cheddar cheese. Breadsticks ($3.99) were from the irregular, Papa John’s school and thus portioned by weight (3/4 lb.) rather than number. A Custom Stromboli ($6.99 for a sizable small up to $11.99 for a large) puts the pressure on patrons to pick up to five ingredients to mix with the sauce and cheese. Three were plenty for us and they were nicely blended into a wholly satisfying enclosure—although charging an extra 50 cents for sauce seemed miserly.

Of course, carving out an identity requires some sort of signature dish. Fox’s is the Wedgie ($7.99). Described, debatably, as “Like a Panini—only better,” the Wedgie takes a pizza crust and folds it over lettuce, tomato, mayo and pizza cheese along with a choice of sandwich meats and other cheeses. We went with the steak variation, which proved a gut-busting—in a good way—combo of shredded sirloin steak, sweet peppers and onion. Fox’s may be based in Pittsburgh, but clearly management has visited Philadelphia.

For now, just being in its lonely location may be enough for Fox’s. But as other chains inevitably discover the area, the Pittsburgh-based company should be able to hold up on its own merits. And while Indy may not need another chain, I wouldn’t complain if a Fox’s burrowed into my neighborhood.•

—Lou Harry

__________

Last in a month-long series of visits to new pizza places.

 

ADVERTISEMENT

Post a comment to this story

COMMENTS POLICY
We reserve the right to remove any post that we feel is obscene, profane, vulgar, racist, sexually explicit, abusive, or hateful.
 
You are legally responsible for what you post and your anonymity is not guaranteed.
 
Posts that insult, defame, threaten, harass or abuse other readers or people mentioned in IBJ editorial content are also subject to removal. Please respect the privacy of individuals and refrain from posting personal information.
 
No solicitations, spamming or advertisements are allowed. Readers may post links to other informational websites that are relevant to the topic at hand, but please do not link to objectionable material.
 
We may remove messages that are unrelated to the topic, encourage illegal activity, use all capital letters or are unreadable.
 

Messages that are flagged by readers as objectionable will be reviewed and may or may not be removed. Please do not flag a post simply because you disagree with it.

Sponsored by
ADVERTISEMENT

facebook - twitter on Facebook & Twitter

Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ on Facebook:
Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ's Tweets on these topics:
 
Subscribe to IBJ
ADVERTISEMENT