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DINING: Delicia lives up to the name

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Dining - A&E

Call me contrary, but rave reviews usually turn me off.
 

ae-delicia05-15col.jpg Tostones Con Longaniza pairs tangy grilled sausage bites with crispy fried plantains. (IBJ photo/Aaron P. Bernstein)

After all, the higher my expectations—of a movie, restaurant or whatever—the greater the chance I’ll be disappointed. So I typically tune out the hype and allow myself to be surprised.

That’s hard to do when a restaurant was the talk of the town for years before it opened, as is the case with new SoBro eatery Delicia. (Turns out the name is a bit of a spoiler, too.)

The long-awaited occupant of a former video rental store, Delicia (5215 N. College Ave., 925-0677) is the latest entry from the ownership group behind Northside Social, Northside Kitchenette and Village Cigar.

The Latin American restaurant opened in March after a protracted legal battle with neighbors over parking, and foodies have been buzzing about it ever since.

Despite the buildup, hubby and I gave it a go. We were pleasantly surprised to find it rave-worthy from start to finish.

We started with the Tostones Con Longaniza ($13), an appetizer that paired tangy grilled sausage bites with crispy fried plantains, or tostones. Each component tickled different taste buds, but the combination—topped with pickled red onions and a garlicky chimichurri sauce—provided a perfectly balanced flavor.

The generously sized starter had me looking for something other than a full entrée. The solution: Peruvian Ceviche Mixto ($11) a light dish featuring assorted seafood chunks marinated in citrus juice. My dad, who hails from neighboring Ecuador, makes the best ceviche I’ve ever had, but this was a close second. Pieces of avocado and onion married well with the mild fish—and allowed me to camouflage the occasional octopus tentacle. Freshly fried tortilla chips added a nice crunch.

My husband played it a little safer, ordering Tamal Corn Cakes ($17), a pair of masa-based patties piled high with tender beef that had been smoked in banana leaves. The chef topped the concoction with pico de gallo, cilantro cream and queso fresco, giving it additional color and flavor. Four thumbs up.

We’d have to borrow some appendages to do justice to the Tres Leches Cake ($7) we chose for dessert. The sponge cake was moist without being soggy, presumably a testament to the three milks that give the treat its name. Delicia’s version was topped with a lime “meringue”—which was closer to whipped cream than the typical pie topper—and a sweet guava compote. Delicioso.•

—Andrea Muirragui Davis

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Second in a month-long series of D-restaurant reviews.

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  • delicia
    I agree whole heartedly with Andrea. It is a great restaurant with unique dishes. We have dined there a couple of times. The red snapper in coconut milk and the ham wrapped scallops are amazing; the duck enchiladas and fish tacos were equally as good. Great atmosphere and bar as well. We are going back!

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  1. If what you stated is true, then this article is entirely inaccurate. "State sells bonds" is same as "State borrows money". Supposedly the company will "pay for them". But since we are paying the company, we are still paying for this road with borrowed money, even though the state has $2 billion in the bank.

  2. Andrew hit the nail on the head. AMTRAK provides terrible service and that is why the state has found a contractor to improve the service. More trips, on-time performance, better times, cleanliness and adequate or better restrooms. WI-FI and food service will also be provided. Transit from outlying areas will also be provided. I wouldn't take it the way it is but with the above services and marketing of the service,ridership will improve and more folks will explore Indy and may even want to move here.

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  4. Fox has comments from several people that seem to have some inside information. I would refer to their website. Changed my whole opionion of this story.

  5. This place is great! I'm piggy backing and saying the Cobb salad is great. But the ribs are awesome. $6.49 for ribs and 2 sides?! They're delicious. If you work downtown, head over there.

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