IBJOpinion

DINING: Harry & Izzy's, 96th Street Steakburgers offer mixed bag to flyers

Andrea Muirragui Davis
December 15, 2008
Back to TopCommentsE-mailPrintBookmark and Share
Dining - A&E

Our month-long look at airport dining continues this week with a peek into the concourses, those post-security areas accessible only to travelers with boarding passes. We had special dispensation — and escorts with badges who were kind enough not to blow our cover.

First up: Concourse A, home base for Northwest, Continental and Delta airlines as well as international arrivals. We eschewed the well-known (T.G.I. Fridays) and more obscure (Green Leafs & Bananas, a salad-and-smoothie joint) national chains in favor of a couple homegrown hangouts.

We started with a sit-down meal at Harry & Izzy's, the upscale offspring of Indy's famed St. Elmo Steakhouse. Our server wore the signature grey cotton jacket, her airport ID the only clue that we weren't in Kansas anymore.

The menu is smaller than Harry & Izzy's downtown location, but it has the important stuff: St. Elmo's signature shrimp cocktail ($15) and an array of liquid courage from the bar. Since we were on the clock, we opted to eat our lunch, not drink it.

Service was solicitous and speedy, saving us from any worries had we been there to catch a flight. Our only nervous moment was when we realized we'd blown our $50 budget on our first stop.

The highlight of our meal was the starter — shrimp topped with the sinus-clearing cocktail sauce delivered the punch we expected and primed us for what was to come.

I tried the Prime Rib Sandwich ($15), which was served with tasty hand-cut fries and au jus for dipping. The thinly sliced beef had a nice flavor and the soft foccacia bun held together well even after a good soak. My only quibble: the creamy horseradish sauce seemed downright bland, especially after the appetizer.

My companion built her own entree, combining a salad and appetizer. Her Romaine Hearts salad ($10) was OK, if nothing special; apples and candied walnuts were a nice addition to the Romaine, but there was too much raspberry vinaigrette. The Toasted Ravioli ($8) was better, with a crispy shell that gave way to warm, comfort food-ish ricotta. Dragged through the tangy marinara ... mmm, bellissima.

Our second stop was 96th Street Steakburgers, located just past the moving sidewalk at Gate A10. It's an order-at-the-counter, get-a-bag-to-go joint, and after jockeying for position in line, we ordered a Steakburger with Cheese ($2.99) and Fries ($1.99). We also asked for a side of cheese sauce, which costs extra, but didn't get it. Then again, we didn't pay for it either.

We took a few bites of the meal to get a feel for the fresh-from-the-grill flavor, then bundled up our bag to see if the food would last through boarding and takeoff. It didn't stand the test of time. When it was hot, the burger was fine, if a bit dry. The fries were adequate. But 30 minutes later, neither was particularly appealing.

I made a follow-up visit to another location and noticed a sign on the drive-through window warning customers that the restaurant's fresh-cut fries are best eaten immediately. If there's a sign like that at the airport outlet, I missed it.

Nothing in Concourse A trip your trigger? No worries. Once you pass through security, you can take a left and take a shortcut to the other side. Handy.


ADVERTISEMENT

Post a comment to this story

COMMENTS POLICY
We reserve the right to remove any post that we feel is obscene, profane, vulgar, racist, sexually explicit, abusive, or hateful.
 
You are legally responsible for what you post and your anonymity is not guaranteed.
 
Posts that insult, defame, threaten, harass or abuse other readers or people mentioned in IBJ editorial content are also subject to removal. Please respect the privacy of individuals and refrain from posting personal information.
 
No solicitations, spamming or advertisements are allowed. Readers may post links to other informational websites that are relevant to the topic at hand, but please do not link to objectionable material.
 
We may remove messages that are unrelated to the topic, encourage illegal activity, use all capital letters or are unreadable.
 

Messages that are flagged by readers as objectionable will be reviewed and may or may not be removed. Please do not flag a post simply because you disagree with it.

Sponsored by
ADVERTISEMENT

facebook - twitter on Facebook & Twitter

Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ on Facebook:
Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ's Tweets on these topics:
 
Subscribe to IBJ
  1. How can any company that has the cash and other assets be allowed to simply foreclose and not pay the debt? Simon, pay the debt and sell the property yourself. Don't just stiff the bank with the loan and require them to find a buyer.

  2. If you only knew....

  3. The proposal is structured in such a way that a private company (who has competitors in the marketplace) has struck a deal to get "financing" through utility ratepayers via IPL. Competitors to BlueIndy are at disadvantage now. The story isn't "how green can we be" but how creative "financing" through captive ratepayers benefits a company whose proposal should sink or float in the competitive marketplace without customer funding. If it was a great idea there would be financing available. IBJ needs to be doing a story on the utility ratemaking piece of this (which is pretty complicated) but instead it suggests that folks are whining about paying for being green.

  4. The facts contained in your post make your position so much more credible than those based on sheer emotion. Thanks for enlightening us.

  5. Please consider a couple of economic realities: First, retail is more consolidated now than it was when malls like this were built. There used to be many department stores. Now, in essence, there is one--Macy's. Right off, you've eliminated the need for multiple anchor stores in malls. And in-line retailers have consolidated or folded or have stopped building new stores because so much of their business is now online. The Limited, for example, Next, malls are closing all over the country, even some of the former gems are now derelict.Times change. And finally, as the income level of any particular area declines, so do the retail offerings. Sad, but true.

ADVERTISEMENT