IBJNews

DINING: Italian style spikes Speedway coffee spot

Back to TopCommentsE-mailPrintBookmark and Share
Dining - A&E

The opening of a chain coffee shop wouldn’t normally be something I’d dedicate a column to. But Lino’s Coffee (1201 Main St., Speedway) is no ordinary coffee shop. At least, not in the continental United States, let alone within sprinting distance of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

Choosing the ground floor of the Dallara race-car chassis facility as its first Western Hemisphere location, Lino’s runs the risk of being considered out of the way. But successful eateries—like successful race car drivers—know that without guts, you don’t stand out.
 

ae-dining-15col.jpg Parma ham, sliced Parmesan and veggies make the Parma more than a mouthful. (IBJ Photo/ Perry Reichanadter)

Lino’s stands out not just in its location, but also in its style. The sleek surfaces, simple color scheme and high ceilings leave plenty of room for savoring food and conversation. Not only weren’t there TVs that plague most casual food locations these days, but there wasn’t even music playing. And it sounded great.

You order at the counter, which creates challenges since there seem to be only subtle differences between the choices. The food and drinks are then delivered to the table … eventually. Those in a hurry might want to stick to Starbucks.

Our beverage choices included Ciocchino ($3.60), with cream syrup, caffe espresso, steamed milk and whipped cream, an Ice Coffee ($2.70/$2.40/$3.80) enhanced with syrup, cocoa powder and cream, and a sublime Budinoso ($3.15) that slid down smoother than Willy Wonka’s chocolate river and instantly turned me from a hot chocolate skeptic into a fan.

The Panini Milano ($2.99) never made it to our table. When we noted that to the server, she said, “Our mistake,” but didn’t lift a finger to replace it or credit our bill.

Must be a cultural thing.

But the Parma ($5.15) arrived safely, with deliciously layered Parma ham, sliced Parmesan, lettuce and tomatoes on a crunchy baguette. A Breasola Salad ($5) was heavy with feta cheese, easy on the grilled eggplant, and accented with Breasola salami, walnuts, sesame seeds and a balsamic vinegar dressing. A bowl of Barilla Whole Grain Mezze Penne with Tomato and Basil Sauce ($5) didn’t dissuade me of my conviction that whole grain pasta just doesn’t come close to the flavor of its traditional cousin, but the sauce was subtle and flavorful and, like the rest of the food here, a bargain. The pastries ($1.80) include brioches and are one more reason to stretch lunch at Lino’s into the afternoon.

Congratulazioni, Speedway. You not only have Main Street dining choices—you now also have a destination coffee shop.• —Lou Harry

__________

Third in a month-long series of new-in-the-neighborhood restaurants.

Note to readers: In last week’s review, I commented on the non-traditional gumbo served at B’s Po-Boy. It turns out that a server error led to the wrong dish arriving at my table, so it’s likely my impressions of the gumbo weren’t valid. The online version of the review has been corrected.

__________

–L.H.

ADVERTISEMENT

  • Sounds nice...
    I'll have to make my way to Speedway and give this place a try. Sounds delicious and, as you pointed out, those price points should wear easy on the budget.

Post a comment to this story

COMMENTS POLICY
We reserve the right to remove any post that we feel is obscene, profane, vulgar, racist, sexually explicit, abusive, or hateful.
 
You are legally responsible for what you post and your anonymity is not guaranteed.
 
Posts that insult, defame, threaten, harass or abuse other readers or people mentioned in IBJ editorial content are also subject to removal. Please respect the privacy of individuals and refrain from posting personal information.
 
No solicitations, spamming or advertisements are allowed. Readers may post links to other informational websites that are relevant to the topic at hand, but please do not link to objectionable material.
 
We may remove messages that are unrelated to the topic, encourage illegal activity, use all capital letters or are unreadable.
 

Messages that are flagged by readers as objectionable will be reviewed and may or may not be removed. Please do not flag a post simply because you disagree with it.

Sponsored by
ADVERTISEMENT

facebook - twitter on Facebook & Twitter

Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ on Facebook:
Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ's Tweets on these topics:
 
Subscribe to IBJ
  1. I keep wondering why I keep hearing about this problem of corporations leaving America, and I never hear a reasonable proposal to lower corporate tax rates and raise personal rates on income from capital gains and dividends, especially for high earners. It is just too simple of a solution for Congress to embrace?

  2. Are you financially down and you need money to settle your dept,or you need money to start up a business or to invest on a huge business,we also offer Loans to individuals, Firms and cooperate bodies at low interest rate , loan terms determinant,Loan amount between the sum of $5,000.00 to $100,000,000.00. US Dollars And Euro. Loan for developing businesses a competitive edge/ business expansion. We Offer The Following Kinds Of Loans. Personal Loans (Secure and Unsecured) Business Loans (Secure and Unsecured) Consolidation Loan FIRST INFORMATIONS NEEDED ARE: BORROWER’S DATA’S INFORMATION,FILL AND RETURN FOR QUICK START UP PROCESS. Name:_________ Last Name:_________ Age:_________ Contact Address:_________ Country:_________ Amount Needed as Loan:_________ Loan Duration:_________ Phone Number__________ Monthly Income/Yearly Income:_________ Purpose for Loan:_________ Occupation:_________ How Soon is Loan Needed__________ Email via: albertbrownfirm@outlook.com

  3. is a disaster. SR37 already needs to be built to interstate standards between 465 and SR144. Southport Road is a mess each morning and evening.

  4. Bass Pro Shops would be good for the mall as well as a Giant Eagle Market District or a Jungle Jim's International Market Place grocery store like the one near Cincinnati Ohio.A Disney quest indoor theme park would be good.An Academy outdoor store would be good too.Indoor Circus shows and magic shows would be good as well. A casino with sports bar would be good.A Disney theater inside that shows movies and Broadway shows would work.Nashville Tennessee concert shops with indoor neon lights would be good.How about a theater that shows travel shows and theme parks. A train store would be good.How about a giant toy store with high tech video games.

  5. This development is in addition to Allpoints Midwest 5, Aitrtek, a recent FedEx and more in Plainfield. Greenwood and Brownsburg also have similar projects.

ADVERTISEMENT