DINING: At 86th and Ditch, a revamped pearl among bistros

Back to TopCommentsE-mailPrintBookmark and Share
Dining - A&E

Tucked away behind Half-Price Books and Donato’s Pizza in the space formerly occupied by Russia House, Pearl Bistro (1475 W. 86th St., 876-7990) has quietly earned a reputation in its first year as more than just another spot for ladies-who-lunch. Stressing locally grown produce, healthier oils and seasonal menu changes, its lunchtime vibe is casual and welcoming.

I’ll admit that the Kenny G music that greeted us upon entry (and played throughout our late-afternoon meal), led me to expect food more inoffensively bland. But my companion and I were pleasantly and repeatedly surprised by a menu that started with Shrimp and Grits ($8).

To be honest, it isn’t pretty. The three sizable shrimp encased like King Arthur’s sword in a lump of earth-toned, gravy-enhanced Wiesenberger grits isn’t likely to grace a magazine cover anytime soon. But the tastes partnered well together, providing a hearty Louisiana-influenced start.

Pearl Bistro offers a selection of sandwiches, including burgers, and salads for lunch. Or you can pick both from a slightly more limited menu—or pair either with a soup—as an $8.50 lunch special. That’s where we headed. The hamburger soup was somber-looking but substantial. Its partner, the Hawaiian Beef Sandwich, was more to our liking. Grilled slices of marinated New York strip steak were topped with pineapple, roasted red pepper and red onion chutney in a must-fork combo.

The Bistro Melt was equally pleasing, presenting sautéed spinach, roasted red peppers, roasted pablanos, tomato, red onion and both provolone and cheddar cheese on a ciabatta roll (I have to admit, though, that the ciabatta still hasn’t won me over, here or elsewhere). We paired it with a House Salad, accented nicely with sweet and spicy nuts.

No time for dessert, we thought.

But we reversed that decision quickly when we heard about the house-made Key Lime Pie. Subtler than most, it sent us off with a nicely tart taste to continue what was left of the work day.•

—Lou Harry


Third in a month-long series of 86th and Ditch dining reviews.


Post a comment to this story

We reserve the right to remove any post that we feel is obscene, profane, vulgar, racist, sexually explicit, abusive, or hateful.
You are legally responsible for what you post and your anonymity is not guaranteed.
Posts that insult, defame, threaten, harass or abuse other readers or people mentioned in IBJ editorial content are also subject to removal. Please respect the privacy of individuals and refrain from posting personal information.
No solicitations, spamming or advertisements are allowed. Readers may post links to other informational websites that are relevant to the topic at hand, but please do not link to objectionable material.
We may remove messages that are unrelated to the topic, encourage illegal activity, use all capital letters or are unreadable.

Messages that are flagged by readers as objectionable will be reviewed and may or may not be removed. Please do not flag a post simply because you disagree with it.

Sponsored by

facebook - twitter on Facebook & Twitter

Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ on Facebook:
Follow on TwitterFollow IBJ's Tweets on these topics:
Subscribe to IBJ
  1. Once a Marion Co. commuter tax is established, I'm moving my organization out of Indianapolis. Face it, with the advancement in technology, it's getting more cost effective to have people work out of their homes. The clock is running out on the need for much of the office space in Indianapolis. Establishing a commuter tax will only advance the hands of the clock and the residents of Indianapolis will be left to clean up the mess they created on their own, with much less resources.

  2. The 2013 YE financial indicates the City of Indianapolis has over $2 B in assets and net position of $362.7 M. All of these assets have been created and funded by taxpayers. In 2013 they took in $806 M in revenues. Again, all from tax payers. Think about this, Indianapolis takes in $800 M per year and they do not have enough money? The premise that government needs more money for services is false.

  3. As I understand it, the idea is to offer police to live in high risk areas in exchange for a housing benefit/subsidy of some kind. This fact means there is a choice for the officer(s) to take the offer and receive the benefit. In terms of mandating living in a community, it is entirely reasonable for employers to mandate public safety officials live in their community. Again, the public safety official has a choice, to live in the area or to take another job.

  4. The free market will seek its own level. If Employers cannot hire a retain good employees in Marion Co they will leave and set up shop in adjacent county. Marion Co already suffers from businesses leaving I would think this would encourage more of the same.

  5. We gotta stop this Senior crime. Perhaps long jail terms for these old boozers is in order. There are times these days (more rather than less) when this state makes me sick.