DINING: Fishers newcomer Flamme continues recent burger boom

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The parade of new hamburger joints continues without an end in sight. Recently, I offered comments on the Chicago export Kuma’s Corner and B-Spot (see reviews at ibj.com/arts), each offering its own take on the ever-popular ground-cow sandwich. Am I burned out? Far from it… as long as the quality stays high.

Flamme Burger (8594 E. 116th St., Fishers, 983-0552) spent only a brief time as the latest burger bearer here (it quickly lost that title to Smashburger). Flamme stands out because it’s a stand-alone place, locally created.

Its big selling point is mighty fine Angus burgers, grilled in a wood-fired oven. Substantial without being dare-you overwhelming, these burgers are edible without a fork and housed in your choice of a brioche, whole grain, gluten-free or pretzel bun.

The Flamme Burger ($9.95) features roasted Serrano peppers, Swiss cheese, crisscrossed slices of applewood bacon that extended well beyond the bun, and sriracha mayo to pull it together. Holistic and very satisfying, it’s a good choice for Flamme’s signature sandwich. More ambitious, the Surf n Turf Burger ($14.95) offered jumbo lump crab and grilled asparagus with a bearnaise sauce. I’m not always a fan when the land meats the sea on my plate, but this burger makes a convincing case for such crossover.

On the poultry side, we tried the Diavlo Chicken ($8.45), a grilled breast basted with hot sauce and topped with sliced Maytag blue cheese. For the non-meat-eaters, the Veggie Burger ($7.95) proved a fine example of the accommodating genre, with a lentil bean patty good enough on its own but well appointed with arugula, tomato, red onion and tahini. No complaints at all on the taste side.

ae-flamme-8-15col.jpg Bacon extends well beyond the bun on Flamme’s signature burger. (IBJ photo/Eric Learned)

Speaking of side, actual sides are limited. For the record, we found the Fresh Hand Cut Fries ($2.95) preferable to the over-cheesed Truffle Parmesan Fries ($3.95), but that could be a rookie-month issue.

In addition to burgers, Flamme has salads, a handful of other sandwiches, and a short list of beer, wine and gelato shakes to wash those down. Our visit early in the run found the shakes not yet pouring—a shame since I was looking forward to the Salted Caramel or the Bananas Foster ($5.95).

A lack of appetizer options and an order-at-the-counter/delivered-to-your-table set-up makes dining here a relatively quick process—which isn’t a problem if you work in Fishers or live nearby and have Flamme on your rotation list. That efficiency, though, combined with the prices, can make it less satisfying as a destination spot if you are venturing farther.•

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